What do you need?
- 8 balls of yarn
- crochet needle 4
- finishing needle
- 5 medium size buttons
- needle and yarn for the buttons
This pattern is for a medium man size. Here are the measurments:
Frontpart width (without board): 25 cm per part
Back part width: 53 cm
Board for the buttons: 7 cm
Board at the bottom: 6 cm
What stitches do you have to know?
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sl st = Slip stitch
rel dc = relief double crochet
Besides these stitches we use cables. I make a difference between two kind of cables. De small cable (scab) and the big cable (bcab). There is a tutorial in the video below how to crochet these cables.
Front part 1
Ch 39 + 2. The last ch 2 don’t count as a stitch. End each row with a ch 2 and turn your work.
Row 1: dc
Crochet the whole front part with cables. We crochet the next cable pattern:
dc, dc, rel dc, rel dc, dc, scab, dc, rel dc, rel dc, dc, bcab, dc, rel dc, rel dc, dc, scab, dc, rel dc, rel dc, dc, dc.
Don’t let this scare you. This is what it looks like:
The video here explains how to crochet these stitches:
But it’s not exactly the same as my pattern, because I add something at the beginning and at the end. So, don’t crochet it exactly as in the video, pay attention you crochet MY pattern, or else it is getting to small for a sweater.
Row 2: Crochet cable pattern
Row 3: Crochet cable pattern, but the back side. The video shows you how to do that.
Repeat row 2 and 3 till row 41.
Row 42: Crochet cable pattern, decrease last two stitches
Row 43: Decrease first two stitches, Crochet cable pattern
Row 44 and 45: Repeat row 42 and 43.
Row 46 and 47: Crochet the cable pattern you have now
Row 48: decrease first two stitches, Crochet cable pattern.
Row 49:Crochet cable pattern, Decrease last two stitches
Row 50: Decrease first 3 stitches, Crochet cable pattern.
Row 51: Crochet cable pattern, Decrease last two stitches
Row 52: Decrease first 3 stitches, Crochet cable pattern
Row 53: Crochet cable pattern, Decrease last two stitches
Row 54 – 62: Crochet cable pattern. Finish your work, but leave a long piece of yarn.
Front part 2
Repeat row 1 – 41 from front part 1. After row 41 you do the same as at front part 1, but you mirror everything. Finish also after row 62, and leave a long piece of yarn.
Crochet the back part with granite stitch, also known as moss stitch. This is how it works:
End each row with a ch 1 and after that we turn our work.
Ch 92 + 2.
Row 1 – 66: Crochet granite stitch.
Row 67 – 70: Decrease first 2 stitches, crochet granite stitch, decrease last 2 stitches.
Row 71 – 101: Crochet granite stitch. Finish at the end of row 101.
Sew the front parts to the back part. Sew the sides until row 41 of the front parts. Sew the top to the back part.
This is what it looks like. Sorry for the photo bomber. He always loves to sit on my crochet work 😉
We crochet the board like this (it’s a dutch tutorial, but you can watch how it works):
Attach your yarn in de corner of front part 1. Crochet at the bottom of front part 1, through the back part, to the corner of front part 2. End each row with a ch 2 and turn your work.
Row 1: hdc
Row 2 – 7: Crochet board. Do not cut off your yarn after row 7, we are going to use this with the next part.
Board for the buttons
We are going to crochet de board for the buttons. We use the granite stitch, the same as the back part. Ch 1 and then crochet on the side of the front part, through the back of the neck, to the other front part corner. End each row with a ch 2 and turn your work.
Row 1: sc
Row 2 – 6: Granite stitch
Row 7: We are going to make the holes for the buttons. Crochet for this 2 times the granite stitch (so a sc and a ch, two times). *ch 3, skip 3 stitches, crochet granite stitch 6 times*. Repeat the part between ** 4 times, so you have 5 holes in total. Crochet granite stitch until you reach the other corner.
Row 8: Granite stitch. Crochet in the ch 3 space of the last row: 1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc, ch 1. Continue granite stitch. Repeat this with every ch 3 space.
Row 9 – 11: Granite stitch. End your work at the end of row 11. Sew the buttons on place.
Ch 40. Close with a sl st.
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc. End with a sl st in 2nd ch of the first ch 2. Do NOT turn your work.
Row 2 – 8: Ch 2, crochet board, like bottom of this sweater. End every row with a sl st in 2nd ch of the first ch 2. Still, do NOT turn your work.
From now on we are going to ch 2 at the end and turn our work.
Row 9: ch 2, dc. End with a sl st in 2nd ch of the first ch 2.
We are going to crochet the sleeves with a cable pattern, just like the front parts. This is the pattern:
*rel dc, rel dc, dc, scab, dc*.
Repeat the parts between ** the whole row. The first ch 2 of every round don’t count as a stitch.
Row 10: Crochet cable pattern
Row 11: Crochet cable pattern, but the back side.
Row 12 – 20: Repeat row 10 and 11.
Because the sleeve needs to get bigger, we are going to increase from now on. We are doing this with adding a extra dc every row, so that we can finally add a new scab and 2 rel dc.
Row 21 – 22: Increase in first stitch. Crochet cable pattern.
Row 23: Increase in first stitch. Crochet cable pattern. End with 4 sl st, so you start your new row in the beginning.
Row 24: Create a new scab. dc. Crochet cable pattern. Increase in the last stitch.
Row 25: Increase in the first stitch. Crochet cable pattern
Row 26: Crochet cable pattern. End with 3 sl st.
Row 27: Crochet 2 rel dc, 1 dc. Crochet cable pattern.
Row 28 – 35: Repeat row 21 – 27.
Row 36 – 57: Crochet cable pattern
Now we are going to crochet the part on the shoulder.
Row 58: Crochet cable pattern, but stop 5 stitches earlier.
Row 59 – 72: Decrease first two stitches, Crochet cable pattern, decrease last two stitches. Finish your work after row 72, but leave a long piece of yarn, to attach the sleeve to the sweater.
Crochet another sleeve, the same way you did this one. Sew the sleeves to the vest.
And you are done! This is what it looks like:
It is so beautiful. No one will see that this is a crochet work. Everyone really thinks this is a knit work.
Anyway, good luck with crocheting this sweater. It’s not that hard, but the result is lovely. The pattern is designed and made by myself. The pattern is for free, for your own use. So don’t copy or share my pattern without letting me know, please. If you love this pattern you can make a donation to me. I would really appreciate that. You can choose your own amount by clicking the button below:
Thank you, have a nice day and see you soon! Bye!